A Blog about my love in perfumes, the aesthetics, the hedonism, the greatness of these artistic creations of the olfactory world. It is about my wish, my dream to create something like this one day.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

Chanel Exclusifs : Eau De Cologne

Easily the most forgettable and unremarkable of the 6 new launches, the opening note is a classic eau de cologne note which is the standard neroli, bergamot blend. If you just took it at face value. I think it is like the duality of Shamilar (Guerlain), at first citrusy fresh, but in actual a alluring oriental.
This reminds me of a fragrance by Sacre Nobi, Sloth, which also had an opening note that is similar, orangeflower and neroli, easily dismissed until you take the time to appreciate it.

From the quick expected cologne top note, the fragrance settles rather unexpectedly into a more sweet spicy floral note. This distinctly reminds of that this is a very refined take of Cologne by Thierry Mugler. Although Cologne is rather rough around the edges, and a bit synthetic with its greenish tint and silver cap, Eau De Cologne is quite refinement of a very old Penhaligon bouquet and yet modernized with a sheer orangeblossom note.

Rather unexpectedly, a note something like L’Origan (Coty) or L’Heure Bleu (Guerlain) springs up, full of violets (ionones), sweet anise and spices and woods. Yet because of the overdose of EdC notes, is totally luminous and more airy and more atmospheric than L’Heure Bleu even.

I think the orangeblossom note is the most beautiful central note of EdC, it makes the fragrance logical, tying two halves which are totally unrelated. It ties the fleeting top cologne note and instead of leading it to some herbaceous musky note, it leads it into a sweet floral note, with flowers and woods.

Not exactly original, yet beautifully done, summery and dreamy, like a sun beam shining all the way from morning into dusk. Sadly, perhaps EdC was not a good name, it made me stereotype the fragrance, it should be L’Air or Atmosphere or something like that…

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