A Blog about my love in perfumes, the aesthetics, the hedonism, the greatness of these artistic creations of the olfactory world. It is about my wish, my dream to create something like this one day.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

Chanel Exclusifs : Coromandel

This fragrance was inspired by lacquered Coromandel screens.

On initial smell, it reminded me of cinnamons and patchouli, forming the central accord and signature theme of the fragrance. The patchouli forming the woody theme of the wooden Coromandel Screen, the cinnamon giving it a much eastern twist.

To support the lacquered screen them further, this accord is further supported by a slight aldehydic note (something like Lipstick Rose from Frederic Malle) which gives it a waxy and plastic feel, coupled with a resinous benzoin note which completes the lacquer like feel. I must say this aspect is really subtle and not really in the forefront, which is good, its meant to hint, not reek of lacquer. Although I would have wanted it to be slightly more pronounced. The overall effect also reminded me of Old Spice so a rather masculine opening, it also reminded me of Opium (YSL) to a much lesser extent, with the mellis accord of spices (cinnamon), labdanum and benzoin.

Just as I was being transported into the mystical east, I was gently reminded that a hot vanilla coco drink wafting into the slightly old, slightly avant guard European apartment, filled with bouquets and bouquets of red and white roses.

Running underneath this accord is a typical floral note of roses, jasmines and the likes, which gave a very delicate floral bouquet, filling what must be a harsh accord of cinnamons, patchouli and aldehydes. The overall impression is one of an oriental like the classic Shalimar (Guerlain) (the rose, vanilla & rose accord) or like the sweet gourmand Angel (Thierry Mugler) (the rose, vanilla, chocolate and patchouli accord) or the light radiant powdery Prada (labdanum, benzoin and vanilla). In any case, this theme switches between an ancient classic Shalimar and a modern Angel. It is quite interesting, the oscillation between the two or three fragrances.

The fragrance is like a mélange of well connected ideas, the chocolate building on the patchouli theme, the vanilla building on the chocolate, leading on to an oriental theme, then the mellis accord, leading back to the spices and wrapping it all up with flowers. It is a well thought out fragrance, full of skill and refinement. Yet, strangely, it is rather forgettable, rather same, rather familiar.

If the waxy, resinous, lacquer like note was stronger, it would be a fragrance of such distinction.
Photo from Chanel.com

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