tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54638114630786845722011-11-27T16:09:20.091-08:00A Blog about my love in perfumes, the aesthetics, the hedonism, the greatness of these artistic creations of the olfactory world. It is about my wish, my dream to create something like this one day.Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.comBlogger191100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-62620886642126648312007-07-17T03:26:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:14.706-08:00

It is a fragrance that I did not like when I initially smelt it. It really turned me off with its overdose of the heavy florals, with something like a coconut cream overtones, so much so I thought I was smelling a rather expensive sunscreen lotion, rather than a perfume.Its when I bought a bottle of the parfum and in really small doses, started to understand and appreciate this fragrance. I

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-37128883411736931952007-06-15T01:14:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:15.044-08:00

As it unfolds, a flurry of fruity and floral notes rush at you. It was like you were entering a closed up room, and suddenly the door opens at you and the warm air within gushes out, laden with odours within, fruits from the bowl of ripening peaches sitting on the dinning table, and the bouquet of roses, green and full of life, and the brewing cup of cocoa with the creme brulee served up

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-91661018560757456152007-06-07T22:21:00.001-07:002008-11-13T04:15:15.379-08:00

I have left this to the last of the Exclusifs to review, however, that does not mean that it would be the best of the six new launches. Only that it intrigued me long enough to keep coming back to it again and again.Sometimes fragrances are just like that. At first, you might not like it very much and after many tries, and given lots of chances, you grow to like it or even fall in love with it.

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-91942358019885263122007-06-03T06:53:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:16.471-08:00

An Essay on the Evaporation Curve Within the entire perfume, which I shall call total evaporation curve, there are a mix of 3 evaporation curves, ie. Of the top, middle and bottom notes.In these three, they blend together to form a harmonous total evaporation curve.Quantity of MaterialsThe top notes start at the top and mostly evaporate by the time they reach middle of the evaporation curve. The

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-78257717698249928412007-05-17T00:36:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:16.894-08:00

19 is one of those rare beauties that come out once in a blue moon. Some perfumes borrow ideas from other people and build on them, and once in a while, someone comes out with an entirely original creation of such abstract beauty that once you experience it, you will simply sigh.I must qualify, of the three concentrations, Parfum, EDP and EDT, all reflect different part of the personality.The

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-38491734180716302912007-05-12T00:56:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:17.433-08:00

Sometime ago, a perfumer friend taught me a lesson about accords. An accord, in simple terms, is a harmony of perfumery notes, that forms an idea or gives a distinctive perfumery note.I used to think that accords are huge things, like the most obvious smelling things that makes up the idea of the perfume. Like woods, amber and vanilla can give oriental accord. I used to think they have to shout

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-32802711182239899602007-05-07T19:17:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:17.967-08:00

Cuir de Russie is really a fragrance of its time. Again a creation of Ernest Beaux and created in an age and time when women were gradually taking charge of their lives. In this era are milestones like the “smoking jacket” by YSL, and the many smoking women, and of course the large variety of tabac type (Tabac Blond (Caron), Emeraude (Coty) and leather type fragrances (Cabochard(Gres), English

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-69707987029928519442007-05-06T02:50:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:18.333-08:00

Discovered this really good article by Chandler Burr on the background of the Chanel Exclusifs for The New York Times. Do give it a read.Photo from Chandler Burr.http://www.chandlerburr.com/articles/22skin.html

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-38663293715313190182007-05-02T03:48:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:18.851-08:00

Today I reached out to my three samples of Chanel 22. One is a vintage version parfum, the other a modern parfum from a 5 sample parfum set by Chanel and the last is an Eau De Toilette bottle which is about 10 yrs old. I am frankly amazed at how different these 3 fragrances smell, even though they are all supposed to be the same thing, same theme, and same raw materials.The vintage parfum is like

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-88381019556740129412007-05-01T21:05:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:19.643-08:00

The first time I smelt Bois des Iles was in a samples fridge in the fragrance library in Firmenich. The thought of exotic wood, in a faraway land, hardly related to the cold open refrigerator door and the cold bottle dripping with condensation. Yet the mildly golden liquid within transported me to another place.As I put my nose to the touche, I sense immediately the spicy woody accord, led by a

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-10669598427978929172007-04-30T08:50:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:19.988-08:00

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-29894306058225196992007-04-25T20:47:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:20.263-08:00

Gardenia is one of the original creations of Ernest Beaux, and it belongs to the original collection of the Chanel Exclusifs.I have always had a love affair with gardenias, and I was always very excited when the gardenias are in bloom during spring time. The creamy fruity scent of the flowers often bring to me a feeling of new hope. Its headiness pregnant with expectancy, yet is verdant greenness

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-47038024945429150162007-04-05T08:01:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:20.587-08:00

31 Rue Cambon was inspired by Chanel's legendary boutique.Chypres, known in its present form since the creation of the great La Chypre (Coty) has been taken in all directions due to the ease at which a chypre can be defined. But ultimately, chypres find its core in the mousse de saxe (oakmoss) note, which smelt by itself is one of great wonder.The moss note is at once dark, with an algae & tar

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-36498188602939502642007-04-05T08:00:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:21.056-08:00

This fragrance was inspired by lacquered Coromandel screens.On initial smell, it reminded me of cinnamons and patchouli, forming the central accord and signature theme of the fragrance. The patchouli forming the woody theme of the wooden Coromandel Screen, the cinnamon giving it a much eastern twist.To support the lacquered screen them further, this accord is further supported by a slight

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-63783505042032150342007-04-05T07:58:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:21.554-08:00

Easily the most forgettable and unremarkable of the 6 new launches, the opening note is a classic eau de cologne note which is the standard neroli, bergamot blend. If you just took it at face value. I think it is like the duality of Shamilar (Guerlain), at first citrusy fresh, but in actual a alluring oriental. This reminds me of a fragrance by Sacre Nobi, Sloth, which also had an opening note

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-36413594687405454802007-04-05T07:55:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:21.783-08:00

Les Exclusifs are “based on the complicated trajectory of the founder’s difficult and flamboyant life. They are also the scents she cherished, outdoors and at home” (Allure, Feb. 2007, page 178).No.18 is an homage to Chanel jewelry consisting mostly of diamonds and platinum. Jacques Polge was inspired by this to create No 18, building it around the ambrette seed.The opening notes are confusing,

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-52092218090676407022007-04-05T07:43:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:21.962-08:00

The name Bel Respiro, comes from a country house that Coco Chanel owned. This vegetal fragrance starts off with a rather abstract green note, fresh and like a breeze, then settles down to an accord of resinous galbanum, reminding one of sap, broken twigs and even deeper still a earthy and leathery note.Immediately, it reminds me of the great classic, the original Vent Vert, but that was not all,

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-18945569046590724052007-03-28T08:47:00.000-07:002008-11-13T04:15:22.450-08:00

The theme about duality and contrasts brings me to discuss another interesting fragrance that is about the same idea but a very different type of fragrance.Anais Anais is probably the best known floral, created by Firmenich some 30 years ago. It still remains a very beautiful floral. This ethereal fragrance is quite a different thing from the bleached white and watery ozonic florals you see being

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5463811463078684572.post-9818504417243614202007-02-23T00:34:00.000-08:002008-11-13T04:15:22.867-08:00

Many years ago, when I first smelt Shalimar, it was as if I fell into a deep sleep and was wisked away into a dream world. This dream world is something I occassionally visit and go back to again and again.Described by many as the most sensual perfume in existance, it was for me another thing altogether. That dream world was one of innocence, like as if I am being cuddled into my mother's bossom

Collin Charleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04156398148241932850noreply@blogger.com0